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We arrived in Quepos after 20 hours of travel. 2 planes, 2 buses, 6 PowerBars, 2 beers, 4 hours of sleep, 1 taxi, and 6 crocodiles (swimming under a bridge en route). Upon our arrival at our apartment, Tate was given the exquisitely wrapped gift (note the Hello Kitty wrapping paper) by her newest friends the three boys of the hosts of our apartment: Dallas (13), Dillon (9), and Brandon (7). What we did the rest of the day is a complete blur as I was a bit too tired to register any details. |
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This was largely a day spent scoping out the town, finding the market, and largely getting our bearings. The kids fetched affection from EVERY passer-by, Tate ate it up as you could see in her confident swagger, Brice on the other hand... will simply have to get used to it. We discovered that cars do not yield to pedestrians (no exeptions) and also two-foot high curbs and two-year-olds are an interesting combo. We found our new favorite cafe and the fruit platter elicited giant smiles and a huge WOW from Brice which made the waitress giggle with delight.
On an evening trip to the Internet cafe we were fortunate enough to be directed to the Italian eatery that has a gelato selection beyond belief. Yummy! Then we went home for dinner and an after-dark swim session with Brandon and Dillon... "Thumbs-up, right-on dude" as the kids would say (thanks Dad for that expression). I have a feeling we'll be doing a lot of night swimming. |
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This was a bus-to-beach day. Manuel Antonio is a 10 minute bus ride from Quepos, the bus is only 25 cents. There is a national park there and also many beaches to choose from. We went for the easiest access beach today, which proved wonderful as we found a nicely shaded spot on the north side of a cliffy peninsula. The kids became one with the sand. There were also fantastic little caves and rocks to explore. The shaved ice guy smartly parked himself right in front of us (there was no one else around) - we let him stand there an hour before we finally gave him some business.
Brief market stop next door to the bus stop and a quick meal before the long (10 minute) walk home. The kids were so very tired...
... but of course the moment we come home, their new buddies Brandon and Dillon are going bonkers in the pool, so Tate and Brice rally. These kids are darling, I wish we could bring them home. Tate has confided in me her intentions to marry Brandon, and she has reasoned that her chances with him might be better if she indeed learns Spanish. The boys are bilingual, but they speak to eachother in Spanish. Tate has a deep fondness forming, things may get dicey come time to return to Mt. Shasta.
The kids have grown since we've been here. Their confidence has sprouted and their ability to adapt is inspiring. Tate freely responds to total strangers with an "Hola, como estas?" and Brice has very much adopted the attitude that if-mom's-not-freaked-out-then-why-should-I-be. Tate has been especially helpful around the house and with helping Brice with everything from getting dressed to getting a drink of juice. |
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My friend Shawni asked how I could get the kids to have the patience to endure a visit to the Internet cafe: the photo to the left might explain that. Vanilla popsicles. Plus we are usually only there for 10 minutes and the owners have what looks to be a 7 month old baby there for the kids to oogle at. It's a very kid friendly culture.
After the requisite Internet stop today, we tried out a different market in Quepos, the "Super Mas". Jackpot! Fresh bread, Nutella, and Kashi. Along with the a supremely stocked dairy section, now we're set. All that and they take US dollars too (which saves me from having to think in multiples of 475 to calculate the conversion).
A wild time swimming in the afternoon at home and then lots of reading books together after dark. Sleep comes easily.
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The farmers market here begins to set up on Friday nights and on Saturday is in full swing. We were not disappointed. There were about 40 growers happy to allow Tate and Brice to sample their wares: pineapples, papayas, melons. There was also an amazing array of veggies, fresh breads, cheeses, spices, plants, and crafts. Tate and Brice were quite comfortable meandering through the crowd hand in hand. There was also live music at one end of the market, but Tate prefered the more contemporary pop music blaring from speakers of the trucks at the other end of the market.
The walk to town is becoming part of the routine, and the kids delight in the familiarity of it all. We pass banana trees, these pretty purple leafy shrubs, a purple garage door, a rusty old boat, lots of birds, a fencepost that is sprouting branches, roosters, and dogs. We also pass a police station that the kids are convinced is a used car lot (I almost agree with them).
We had several pool sessions today, I think we're averaging about three per day. The kids can get into their swimsuits by themselves which hugely accelerates the routine.
Tate and Brice have become more and more independent, allowing me time to take care of the basic household duties. Today I found Tate reading to Brice while I was busy cleaning up after lunch. Our days are growing more harmonious as we settle in. |
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This morning I gave Tate the camera and asked her to take a few pictures of our home here in Costa Rica. She and Brice were gone for about 10 minutes, I could hear them making the rounds as some of our neighbors were greeting them. Tate delivered the camera back and I downloaded no fewer than 90 images (yes, that's 9 & 0) that she had taken. What was even more remarkable than the sheer quantity was actually the thoroughness by which she documented our space. She had flora, fauna, texture, people, landscapes... and I ended up only deleting one image - the washed our flash shot about 2 inches from Brice's nose. The rest I'll save for our young photojournalist.
After the morning swim we decided to explore the mystical stairway that rises up into the lush hillside just beyond the gate to our complex. We had a few clues as to where it would lead us - grabbed the sunscreen and gatorade and up we went. It took us up to the road between Quepos and Manuel Antonio which presents an interwoven network of shanty houses dotted between multi-million dollar homes. I took in signs of eager development (on a land that doesn't seem quite able to support it), while the kids were simply excited about the car we passed with no wheels and no doors and the fistful of hibiscus in their respective hands.
While Brice napped, Tate and I cooled off in the pool. We caught sight of a monkey coming down from his hillside lair. He proceeded to climb himself up onto the roof of our house and proceed to cruise tree to tree looking for bird nests to raid. Yes, well, we learned that monkeys don't just eat bananas. And as the monkey was nabbing a nest, a Perigrine Falcon (my best guess) came in and swooped below the action, grabbed a nibble falling from the nest, and flew away. This whole episode came and went so quickly, but it most definitely ranks up there in the top five on my all time wild kingdom highlights.
Ah yes, then on to swimming. Tate pretty much in 5 minutes today figured out that she indeed could swim all the way (with head in the water) across the width of the pool. She was so pleased with her achievement; and proceeded to practice repeatedly. Here is the moment captured on film::
Tate's swimming debut (AVI movie file | 1.8 MB) |
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We spent the morning in the pool and writing postcards home; got ourselves ready to head into town, but got so hot that we had to go abort the town idea and go back to the pool. Later after naps, we made it down to town and found the biblioteca (the library). There was a great selection of spanish and bilingual books to meet all of our literary needs while we're here. The library building itself was an open air, one room, and totally charming place. There is also a little art table set up and of course a very friendly librarian.
As we left the library we got to meet "Caloe", a dog who gets to ride on a motorscooter.
We got word of Geoff's eminent arrival (evidently he was able to call using his US cell phone on the bus to Quepos) . So Tate and Brice got to stay up way past their bedtime to wait for Dad. In the evening, Brandon and Dillon joined Tate and Brice for many hours of trucks, pretend play, hide and seek, and coloring. Dillon is quite good at paper folding and he crafted the kids many boats, planes, and mouses.
Dad arrived big smiles and hugs for all of us. He also brought a goody bag of many things from home: kiwi jam, mail, a mount shasta newspaper, and even magnets so that we can put our artwork up on the fridge. Thanks Dad! |
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